Constructing a functional micro climate - by Stephen Crane.

For many years I have been making Cases or Terraria for personal use specifically due to changing environments in which I had to keep my collection of carnivorous plants.
I was fortunate to have already heard of Dr. Nathaniel Bagshaw Ward (1791-1868) and as such constructed my first case approximately ten years ago out of a soft wood with wooden lantern. This demonstrated to me the need for a hardwood frame as the case although regularly sealed and painted only lasted ten years. There was also difficulty in making the wooden glazing bars and even the use of a decent compound mitre set up made construction difficult and laborious.
What was a natural progression concerning the lantern top was the use of lead calm and the simplicity of welding with 40/60 and a rasp to smooth off. Needless to say this option was open as working with stained glass and leaded lights has been my profession for nearly fourteen years.
So there it was, all I wanted now was a simple easily constructed design that could be varied in size and as simple or elaborate as possible. So here is a concise breakdown for others to have a go if they desire without any of the trial and error scenarios that I have undergone. They really do work and they also look suitably sculptural for those partners who just don’t understand carnivorous plants. Or in my case will not otherwise have them in the house.

The Numbers also refer to photographs:

1. Start your wood (preferably a hardwood). And make a suitable base. In this case I had a few bases already made a few months previously. The base needs to be as flat as possible (friends with thickness planers are handy). Alternatively you can purchase pre planed timber.

2. Cut your wood into strips approximately 25 mm thick and select your corner post wood and your lantern /lid base (in which the leaded top shall sit). The corner post needs to be run through a bench saw or equivalent (7 mm in and 5 mm deep) to open up the notches for the glass to slide and then cut to required size. Alternatively, you could use a router to do this. At this time the top lantern ‘T’ section needs to be cut, but not mitred to size yet.

3. Drill some holes in the corners for your bolts to slide snugly through. Work this so that the posts will not hang over the edges, and then drill vertical holes in your posts as accurately as possible. (Refer to photo 1 to see the type of bolt I am using) These bolts also double as feet for the case.

4. Bolt the posts onto your base and glue if needs be. I try not to so they can be dismantled for cleaning. But if gluing is necessary I would recommend a polyurethane expanding glue, easy, quick and fiendishly effective. I use this type to glue the lantern to its top. Then cut glass for the four sides.

5. You can now mitre the lantern base, as you will now know what measurements to go by. Work out and cut your triangles in glass for the lantern. Surround with lead calm and solder. Tape the glass on the underside and place 3D in your base holder.

6. Spot solder the lantern and then fill the length of each side.

7. Use a rasp to clean up the solder edge and then a bastard file and finally some wire wool. I find a rough edge looks just as nice as a completely cleaned edge. When all this is done buff up with a black grate polish or if any have some zebrite/zebo tucked away then use that. Just apply and leave to dry for a bit. Then vigourously buff. This also cleans the glass.

8. Glue the lantern to the lantern base and seal by paint or varnish; Waxing afterwards also gives good protection. Like most wooden products in close proximity to humidity it will need maintenance.

Good luck. Do contact me if anybody would wish any further information. By the way that is a small N. Ephipiata in the case above (photo 8), promising to explode in growth next year .

Here are a couple more examples of cases I made earlier. There are endless possibilities with regard to wood stain and finish and I’ll leave it up to you to decide how fancy you want to make yours.

Those of you with children and pets around may want to use toughened glass in preference to standard glass as this is a safer option.

by Stephen Crane.